The Woven World of Dahye Jeong

Dossier

9 Aug

Preview

We get to know South Korean weaver Dahye Jeong, the winner of this year’s Loewe Foundation Craft Prize known for her delicate horsehair creations

Dahye Jeong ’s woven objects are so delicate that they tremble in the slightest breeze. In the hand, they’re pliant and flexible, and their surfaces have a unique woven texture. Jeong produces these pieces, made of horsehair woven in a traditional technique used by Korean hat-makers in the Joseon dynasty, from her home studio in Seoul. The ethereal items come in many forms, including baskets and vessels, mobiles, jewellery and accessories such as seonchu, knotted attachments for hand fans, and clothing decorations called norigae.

Jeong was recently awarded the prestigious Loewe Foundation Craft Prize for 2022. Her winning creation, a woven basket called A Time of Sincerity, took her two months to complete, working day and night. Though it weighs just thirty-four grams, it carries great meaning for the artist, embodying her approach to art and to life. ‘In order for a thin line to become three-dimensional, it takes time and honest sincerity,’ she says, explaining the process in which fine, soft strands of horsehair are woven into intricate geometry, gaining structure and dimensionality. 'I hope that my life will be a “solid result”, a gathering of days spent honestly, rather than days chasing recognition or fame,’ the prizewinner says.

A Time of Sincerity mimics the geometric patterns found in the traditional sabanggwan hat worn by noblemen in the Joseon dynasty, but Jeong says she ‘also wanted to express the piece in the form of simple ancient earthenware’. As she explains, ‘It was intended to “contain” the history of horsehair craft, which has lasted more than 500 years.’

Jeong holds a Bachelor of Fine Arts in sculpture from Jeju National University and an MFA in crafts in traditional textile from Korea National University of Cultural Heritage. ‘There were many reasons why I became interested in textiles after studying sculpture,’ she says. ‘I was influenced by my parents, who run a natural dye workshop. With textiles, I was only working with flat surfaces. I prefer three dimensions! So, the moment I found horsehair craft, I liked the fact that it’s a fibre and a three-dimensional material.’

Jeong begins her creations by picking out suitable horsehair. ‘The horsehair should be consistent in thickness from end to end, smooth to the touch, glossy and unbreakable,’ she explains. Using a needle, she weaves the strands over a wooden frame, which she would have cut and sculpted into a suitable shape. The weave must be tight, and the wooden surface keeps the horsehair from slipping. ‘The most difficult part of the craft is patience,’ she says. ‘I have to weave with a certain force. And it takes a considerable amount of time. It's hard to be patient all the time.’ When the piece begins to take shape, she steams or boils it in water to set the woven strands, and so the object comes into being, after countless hours that reveal a quiet, enduring commitment to her craft.

Text / Yvonne Xu
Images / Courtesy of Dahye Jeong